Old school is cool again, watch aficionados! The Black Bay 58 has earned a reputation as an enthusiast’s favourite, and now the watch is getting the Master Chronometer treatment. For the first time, the new, all-burgundy Black Bay 58 also comes on a 5-link bracelet with T-fit, too.
The Black Bay 58 is named after the year in which the first TUDOR divers’ watch waterproof to 200 metres, the reference 7924, dubbed the “Big Crown”, was introduced. Among other aesthetic allusions to this famous historic watch, this model has a 39mm diameter case, in keeping with the characteristic proportions of the 1950s.
This new edition of the Black Bay 58 retains all the core design elements from TUDOR throughout the ages and includes aesthetic notes from a prototype TUDOR Submariner ref. 79190 developed in the ‘90s. The watch boasted a brilliant burgundy dial with a matching bezel. It never saw production, but this design now lives on in the form of a brand-new Black Bay 58.
On top of the new design, the new Black Bay 58 gets the Master Chronometer certification, one of the industry’s most demanding standards in terms of chronometry and resistance to magnetic fields. Each fully assembled watch is tested in Switzerland by the Federal Institute of Metrology, or METAS. To tie the whole package together, the new Black Bay 58 is now available on a 5-link bracelet, a 3-link bracelet, or a rubber strap. All three have TUDOR’s rapid adjustment system known as T-fit, making the watch more wearable than ever before.
With the introduction of this brand-new Black Bay 58, TUDOR has successfully submitted yet another model for tests to obtain Master Chronometer certification. This is part of a constant bid to improve the quality of its products and another step towards a future where the entire TUDOR collection will be Master Chronometer certified.
This certification, offered by a Swiss government body, METAS, requires a substantial number of changes to a regular TUDOR Manufacture Calibre and comes as an independent confirmation of the exceptional quality of the TUDOR watches.
METAS Master Chronometer certification is comprehensive and covers the main functional characteristics of a watch, including precision, resistance to magnetic fields, waterproofness and power reserve. Its standards are incredibly high, starting with precision. In order to qualify, a watch must be able to function within a 5-second range of variation each day (0/+5), that is to say 5 seconds less than the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC) (-4/+6) carried out on a single movement and a second less than TUDOR’s internal standard (-2/+4), which is applied to the brand’s models with a Manufacture Calibre.
The certification also guarantees the timekeeping accuracy of a watch subjected to magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss. Finally, it also guarantees the waterproofness claimed by the manufacturer as well as the power reserve. It should also be noted that two prerequisites are necessary before the certification can be obtained: Swiss manufacturing must conform with the criteria of Swiss Made, and the movement must be certified by the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).
The 3-link “rivet-style” bracelet of the Black Bay 58 model visually refers to the riveted bracelets used by TUDOR in the 1950s and 1960s. These were famous for having rivet heads visible on the side of the links. These bracelets also had a distinct stepped design, where every link, going from the clasp, was slightly larger than the previous one. These two aesthetic elements appear on today’s version, which combines modern manufacturing methods with solid links and “rivets” with laser-finished heads.
This bracelet, along with the 5-link stainless steel bracelet, also comes with the TUDOR “T-fit” clasp, an ingenious system for rapid length adjustment. Easy to use, requiring no tools and offering five positions, this practical system allows wearers to carry out a fine, instant adjustment of the total length of the bracelet along an adjustment window of 8mm. The clasp also features ceramic ball bearings that ensure a smooth and secure closure in addition to adding a pleasing tactile element to the action of the clasp.
A cut-to-size black rubber strap option is also available for the Black Bay 58. It comes in three sizes, fitted with the TUDOR “T-fit” clasp for the perfect fit.
On the inside, it features the signature snowflake motif for added grip, and it is form-fitted specifically for this model.
The Black Bay line features dials inspired by the TUDOR divers’ watches produced during the 1950s. It borrows the characteristic angular hands known to collectors as “Snowflake” from models that appeared in the brand’s 1969 catalogue.
Its shoulderless crown and the characteristics of its case are reminiscent of the first generations of TUDOR divers’ watches.
The Black Bay line is the result of the subtle blend of traditional aesthetics and contemporary watchmaking. Far from simply being an identical re-release of a classic, it brings together 70 years of TUDOR dive watches, whilst at the same time being resolutely anchored in the present.
It is neo-vintage in conception, yet its manufacturing techniques, reliability, robustness and the quality of its finishes are consistent with today’s more rigorous requirements.
Swing by TUDOR’s official website for more details.
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